The Transformation of Hair in India's Wig Industry

India's human hair is at the center of a burgeoning wig industry, valued at billions globally. As cultural attitudes shift, artists like Zeeshan Ali advocate for innovative, affordable wig designs, while traders and businesses work to enhance the local market's value.

The shimmering world of wigs is witnessing a transformation in India, reflecting both cultural shifts and economic potential. For drag artist Zeeshan Ali, wigs are more than a fashion statement—they're a vital part of his identity and performance. With a collection of approximately 45 wigs, Ali emphasizes their role in helping him transition from his everyday persona to captivating stage characters. "It’s an alter of identity," he explains, highlighting the empowerment that comes from wearing the right wig.

In the past, acquiring wigs in India was a challenge, often requiring sourcing from overseas or crafting makeshift alternatives from materials like wool. Now, however, the landscape is changing. Wigs are becoming popular among a broader demographic, including women who wear them as fashion accessories, which has shifted the perception of wigs from niche items to mainstream fashion.

India's status as the leading exporter of human hair, contributing a staggering 85% of global demand, has carved out an essential role in this evolving industry. Kolachi Venkatesh, a hair collector from Chennai, has spent two decades in this trade, initially working alongside his family. Describing the hair picked from households and salons as "gold," Venkatesh points out that despite their hair's enormous market value, collectors earn relatively little—usually between 59 cents to $6 daily.

Most of this hair is exported to China, where it is crafted into wigs. The Chinese wig market alone is valued at $5 to $6 billion, posing a challenge for the Indian industry to capture a larger segment of this lucrative business. Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil articulates that showing investment in India’s hair sector is essential in creating added-value production within the country. This would involve advancements in technology for hair sorting and manufacturing techniques.

Among those progressing the industry is Diva Divine Hair, a company co-founded in 2009 by Nidhi Tiwari. Best known for high-quality hair extensions and wigs, the brand is addressing the increasing demand amid growing issues like hair loss among women. Tiwari acknowledges the shift in social norms, making it more acceptable to discuss and wear wigs openly.

Technology is also playing a significant role in refining wigs, with innovations like lightweight caps and 3D printing making them more appealing and comfortable. As demand for Indian hair soars, driven by its quality and natural look, businesses are adapting and evolving.

Even as the industry flourishes, Zeeshan Ali continues to advocate for the visibility and affordability of Indian wigs, seeking creativity that produces designs embodying a "wow factor." With both talent and innovation driving the market, India's wig industry is set to grow, reflecting broader cultural acceptance and economic potential in the years to come.