# A Tale of Two Shores: Diverging Realities on Lake Kivu

Across the tranquil waves of Lake Kivu, stark contrasts emerge between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, reflecting the harsh realities of war and peace.

By Juliette Michener

February 19, 2025

The serene environment along Lake Kivu in Gisenyi, Rwanda, paints a picture of leisure with sun-seeking tourists, families from Goma, and the peaceful sounds of laughter. However, this idyllic setting starkly contrasts with the turmoil unfolding just a stone's throw away across the border in Goma, Congo, where the recent rebel takeover by M23 has devastated the cityscape.

Just across the lake, the vibrant shoreline of Gisenyi welcomes visitors with colorful decorations and the mouth-watering aroma of grilled dishes. In sharp contrast, Goma, home to around two million residents, finds itself cloaked in despair, where the aftermath of violence has left the streets echoing with sirens and the scent of death. Reports indicate nearly 3,000 fatalities from the January conflict, raising alarms both regionally and globally.

"Over here, it's peaceful, unlike over there," remarks Exauce Shalako, a 20-year-old, who fled the chaos in Goma only to seek solace on the Rwandan side for some brief respite. Shalako's story is a haunting reflection of the realities faced by many who fall victim to the violence across the lake. "We wanted to unwind, to have a change of scene," he explains, reminiscing about his lost friends to the horrors of war.

Although Gisenyi remains a safe haven for those escaping instability, concerns arise about Rwanda's role in the conflict. Experts from both the United States and the United Nations suggest a strong connection between the Rwandan government and the M23 rebel force, which has fueled the violence in eastern Congo. Despite this evidence, Rwanda firmly denies allegations of backing the insurgents.

The juxtaposition of life near Lake Kivu is striking. Visitors flock to jet-ski and enjoy the tranquil waters, while across the border, remnants of violent confrontations mar the landscape. This duality raises questions surrounding the implications of external support in protracted conflicts and humanitarian crises that continually afflict the region.

As the situation develops, observers remain vigilant, hopeful for peace yet aware of the complex interplay between leisure and conflict just minutes apart on the shores of Lake Kivu.