The Hidden Gold: How India's Hair Industry is Transforming the Wig Market

India's hair industry is on the rise, driven by the increasing demand for wigs and the evolving perceptions around their use. Innovators like Kolachi Venkatesh and Nidhi Tiwari are leading the charge, ensuring that Indian hair, regarded as 'gold', contributes to a multi-billion-dollar market. However, challenges remain in maximizing profitability for those at the grassroots level.

Zeeshan Ali, a seasoned drag artist with a decade of experience, has amassed an impressive collection of around 45 wigs that play a pivotal role in his performances across India. “It’s an alter of identity, helping me transition from my everyday self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters,” Ali explains. He emphasizes the significance of the right wig in helping him feel authentic and empowered on stage.

In his early days, however, acquiring quality wigs was a struggle. “Accessibility was extremely difficult in India. Most wigs were sourced internationally or made from whatever materials I had at my disposal,” Ali recalls. Fortunately, times have changed. “Wigs are now a style statement, worn not just by drag performers or actors but also by women looking to switch up their look.”

India is the global leader in human hair exports, accounting for 85% of the world's demand. Kolachi Venkatesh, who has been collecting hair in Chennai for over 20 years, started out in the industry as a picker, salvaging hair from households and refuse. “My parents were in this business, and I took up their mantle,” he shares. He explains the difference between non-Remy hair and Remy hair, emphasizing that while non-Remy hair undergoes more processing, it still holds substantial value.

Despite the burgeoning market, hair pickers earn meager wages often below minimum standards. “A diligent collector might gather 1-5 kilograms a day but can only make between 59 cents to $6 a day,” Venkatesh said, revealing the hardships faced by individuals working within this lucrative sector.

Most collected hair is sold to traders like Venkatesh, who export it to China, home to a multi-billion-dollar wig manufacturing industry. “In contrast to China’s hundreds of factories, India still lacks adequate facilities to add value to its hair exports,” said Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil, the industry body for hair. He calls for government support in investment for better sorting, treatment, and production techniques to elevate India’s standing in the global market.

Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in Delhi in 2009, is one company eager to shift the narrative. Providing high-quality wigs and extensions, Tiwari notes a growing awareness among women dealing with hair loss or thinning. “What was once a taboo subject is now openly discussed, and that shift is essential for business,” she remarks.

Recent technological advancements, including 3D-printed wigs and digital colour-matching tools, have transformed wigs into competitive offerings. Improvements in comfort, like lightweight cap designs and advanced adhesives, also make long-term wear feasible.

George Cherion, representing Raj Hair International, emphasizes the demand for the premium Temple or Remy hair. Notably sourced from Hindu temples for ritualistic purposes, this hair is particularly sought after due to its superior quality. “Remy hair has aligned cuticles leading to a silkier texture, and the demand is skyrocketing,” he affirms.

In Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali highlights the need for more innovative Indian wigs on the market. “We need wigs that can create a wow factor but also want them to be more affordable,” he asserts, looking forward to a future where Indian designs reach new heights across the globe.