Anastasia Samsonova recently became one of the first tourists to experience the newly opened Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Zone in North Korea, also referred to as the country's version of Benidorm. The resort, which opened its doors on July 1, is located on the east coast, near where leader Kim Jong Un spent much of his formative years. Designed to attract international visitors, it has so far only admitted groups from Russia, organized by registered travel agencies.
Traveling with a group of 15, the 33-year-old human resources professional quickly realized that this was not your average beach vacation. With accompanying guards and a rigid schedule, interaction with local residents was heavily restricted. "The guides explained that the guards were necessary to prevent our interactions from startling locals who haven't seen foreigners in a long time," she reported.
Despite the limitations on her freedom, Anastasia found the resort's whitesand beaches to be an unexpected highlight, devoid of crowds. "The beaches were pristine and perfectly maintained," she shared. "Everything was new and spotless." The strict dress code forbidding revealing attire did little to dampen the enjoyment of serene beachfront afternoons.
The Wonsan Kalma resort includes hotels, shopping malls, and even a water park, although many details about its development remain hidden, drawing criticism from human rights groups. Post-pandemic, North Korea began allowing select Russian tourists back in, though international travel remains tentative. A recent halt on Western tourists followed a brief reopening, with current visitors primarily being Russians.
The resort, reminiscent of Spain's Benidorm, serves as a key catalyst in Kim's plan to stimulate North Korea's tourism, although mighty challenges loom. Traveling to Wonsan Kalma costs about $1,800 for a week-long stay, often exceeding typical Russian salaries. Curiously, some tour companies highlight its proximity to missile testing sites as a unique selling point.
Despite rumors surrounding worker conditions in North Korea, including allegations of exploitation, Anastasia’s experience was marked by structured schedules and controlled outings, which did not extend to the water park during her stay. "It felt very raw compared to the typical vacation many Russians expect, but it was an exotic experience," remarked another tourist.
While the North Korean economy seeks revival through increased tourism, entry for potential guests remains a puzzle. Citizens from China, an ally, struggle with access, and the general tourist spotlight remains dim. With travel restrictions gradually easing, Russian tourist numbers are inching upward.
For Anastasia and her group, the allure of Wonsan Kalma remains strong. They are considering returning next year for another trip filled with remarkable, if regulated, memories of their North Korean beach getaway.
