Kolhapuri Artisans Rally Against Prada's Uncredited Sandals

As Kolhapuri artisans voice their grievances over Prada's unacknowledged sandal designs, local politicians and industry groups unite to advocate for recognition and fair practices, highlighting a broader issue of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry.

In the town of Kolhapur, Maharashtra, a centuries-old tradition is under threat as local artisans, who have been crafting distinctive Kolhapuri leather sandals since the 12th century, protest against luxury fashion brand Prada. The artisans claim that Prada's new line of footwear closely resembles their traditional designs yet fails to credit their origins. Sadashiv Sanake, a 58-year-old craftsman, illustrates the struggle faced by only around 5,000 remaining artisans in the region, who work under challenging conditions and earn modest wages.

When news broke of Prada's release during Milan Fashion Week, social media erupted with accusations of cultural appropriation, prompting the brand to issue a statement acknowledging the sandals’ roots. Local politicians and industry associations have since rallied behind the artisans, advocating for their rightful recognition. "Do they have gold in them?" Sanake remarked incredulously upon learning of the luxury price tags for Prada sandals, which can reach up to £1,000 in the UK.

Throughout history, Kolhapuri sandals symbolize the craftsmanship of marginalized communities, specifically the Charmakar (cobbler) caste, who have been recognized for their artistry and potential. Despite the industry being valued over $200 million with nearly 100,000 artisans engaging in the trade across India, many struggle with deficient pay and harsh work conditions. As Sunita Satpute, a 60-year-old artisan, shared, "I earn about $4-5 a day," stressing the profession's challenges.

Factors like rising leather costs and competition from synthetic imitations further complicate the artisans' livelihoods. In recent years, government regulations, including bans on cow slaughter, have caused significant upheaval in sourcing materials, driving costs up and impacting sales.

The ongoing controversy underscores a pressing need for protections around traditional craftsmanship, with experts suggesting that India may need to leverage international frameworks to safeguard artisan rights. In 2019, Kolhapuri sandals were awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status within India, which should provide some level of protection from unauthorized use. However, globally, there is little legal safeguard against aesthetic imitation.

As conversations about royalty-sharing and ethical recognition unfold, industry insiders propose co-branding opportunities with artisans to ensure fair compensation and safeguard cultures from exploitation. Although Prada's spotlight has the potential to elevate the Kolhapuri sandal's value and create demand abroad, many artisans hope for meaningful change in their working conditions and prices.

With a high court plea filed demanding damages and compensation, as well as collaboration efforts between Prada and local artisan associations, a meeting is set to take place soon. As discussions progress, the artisans remain resilient, eager for a future where their heritage is respected and awards them the dignity they deserve.