New Frontiers: The Rise of Scandinavian Wines

From niche hobby to commercial success, Northern Europe’s vineyards are blossoming against all odds as climate change introduces more resilient grape varieties, capturing the interest of consumers and entrepreneurs alike.

In an unexpected twist, Scandinavia is proving to be a new frontier for winemaking, spurred by climate change and innovative grape cultivation. While sipping local wine might not be the first thought when visiting Denmark or Sweden, the region's vineyards are flourishing, showcasing wines that are surprising to many. As wineries continue to emerge across Denmark, Sweden, and even Norway, local winemakers are transforming what once was only a passion into a spirited industry.

Take the Finks, who run Vejrhøj Vingård on Zealand, Denmark's largest island. With their operation starting just 13 years ago, they now produce 20,000 bottles annually, up from 4,000, demonstrating a rapid growth trajectory in local wine production. Their success largely hinges on solaris grapes, a hybrid variety that thrives in colder climates and is increasingly popular in Scandinavian vineyards. “The conditions are different here with longer summer days,” says owner Nina Fink, highlighting the region's unique advantages.

Since European Union regulations relaxed in 2000, the number of commercial vineyards in Denmark has skyrocketed, reaching 150, and Sweden boasts another 47, reflecting a trend towards more ambitious winemaking. Entrepreneurs in the industry are often taken by surprise when they taste local wines. Niels Fink notes the changes in consumer attitudes, with a twinkle of surprise in their eyes, signaling an emerging appreciation for these local delicacies.

Yet, the Scandinavian winemaking sector is still in its infancy compared to established regions like France and Spain. Although there are many challenges including high labor costs and strict regulations on chemical treatments, the increasing average temperatures in both Denmark and Sweden are creating longer growing seasons. However, this rise in temperature also poses risks with more extreme weather patterns.

Prof. Torben Bo Toldam-Andersen from the University of Copenhagen emphasizes that hardier grape cultivars are crucial for the future of winemaking in the region. His program, “FastGrapes,” is pioneering the testing of different grape varieties aiming to identify the best suited for Scandinavia’s environment, thus supporting the establishment of resilient vineyards.

Even with the rising popularity of Scandinavian wines, they still represent a mere fraction of the market and come with a steep price tag. Danish wines are often priced at upwards of 200 kroner ($27), significantly higher than their French and Spanish counterparts. Nicolai Christiansen, a wine shop owner in Copenhagen, admits skepticism about their ability to compete with more established wine-producing countries but notes that there is potential for growth in the market.

Overall, while obstacles remain, the growing interest in Scandinavian wines offers a glimmer of hope amid the evolving landscape, encouraging both consumers and winemakers to explore new tastes in this unpredictable climate.